darren's blog

My favourite surfing locations

My favourite places in the world to surf

  1. Peniche - Estremadura, Portugal

    Peniche is the home of the famours Supertubos wave, a hollow, fast barrel. That's not the reason I like Peniche though, and its not beacuse if the town, which is ordinary, and stinks of fish. I like Peniche beacuse of the beaches and bays. There are many beaches around Peniche, including Praia de Baleal, a massive cresent shaped bay that has a working section in almost all wind directions. There is also Praia de Lagide, exactly next to Baleal. The beach is almost always protected from the wind, making it clean. There is also a reef at Lagide where the swell is maximised. When everything is onshore or blown-out, you can count on Lagide still being surfable. There are loads of places to free camp, mainly Baleal car park. There is also a campsite that costs €3 for a van and person per night, out of season.

El Palmar, Andalucía, Spain

I have a surf after lunch with Steve and Simon. The waves are small but we have a good time, catching quite a few between us.

El Palmar, Andalucía, Spain

In the afternoon I have a surf around my normal spot. I have peaks all to myself. I catch my two best waves ever. With each wave I took off too far off the shoulder, turned back to the white-water, and then turned back onto the wave.

Cabo Trafalgar, Andalucía, Spain

The waves are fairly flat for the whole day. At around 6pm the swell picks up a bit. 2 guys go in with longboards, so I decided to join them. I get one great wave, and a couple of smaller ones. Th

El Palmar, Andalucía, Spain

A take a surf in the afternoon. The waves looked inconsistent, but the waves where better than I had expected them to be. This is the first surf I have had in a month.

Waist-high clean waves at Sao Torpes, Alentejo, Portugal

The waves are a perfect size and glassy today, even at low tide. We surf for over an hour, before the swell dies off, and the waves start dumping nearer the shore. The wind picks up in the afternoon

Choppy head-high waves at Sao Torpes, Alentejo, Portugal

There is strong swell today. I surf at Sao Torpes where the waves are head-high and choppy.

First surf in weeks, at Sao Torpes, Alentejo, Portugal

After a grocery trip to Sines, I head back to Sao Torpes. The waves are a little bigger than I would like, but I go in with Craig. Pail joins us later. I don’t have a good surf, but it is fun to be in.

Tiny wave at Luz beach, Algarve, Portugal

The reef at Luz seems to be working OK, and Craig goes in. Later I take a surf on the beach. Soon after I am in the waves die away, and I don’t last long before I get out. Maybe I will try at Cab

Choppy wave at Cabanas, Algarve, Portugal

After waiting at Luz in the morning, no waves came. We took a drive to Cabanas, where the waves where up to chest high but onshore winds. I had a brief surf, but it certainly wasn’t good.

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